Leather is one of earliest and most useful discoveries. Our ancestors mostly used leather to protect and save themselves from the weather. In early ages, man used to hunt wild animals for food, then made clothing, footwear and crude tents from the hides. Roughly half of the leather which is produced now-a-days is used to form shoes, and about 25% for clothing. Upholstery demands only around 15% of the entire product.

Due to leather’s durability and luxury, leather has been used for seating throughout the history of transportation and furniture. It’s always been the perfect material for creating saddles and tack, also as footwear. During the center Ages, leather became the duvet of choice for dining chairs, because it had been easy to take care of and didn’t absorb the odor of food.

Modern technology has allowed for innovation within the leather industry, because the development of chemicals and complicated processing methods have greatly expanded the aesthetics and feel of leather also because the possible applications.

Raw Materials

Antelope, buckskin, lambskin, sheepskin, and cowhide are the hides most ordinarily raw materials use to make leather jackets. As the skin is taken away from the animal at the meat processing plant, it’s refrigerated, salted, or packed in barrels of brine. After that, it is sent to the tannery where the skins undergo a series of processes designed to preserve and soften the hides. The work which is performed at the tannery plays the most important role to make sure that the resulting garment is of high quality.
Materials that helps in stitching like thread, lining, seam tape, buttons, snaps, and zippers are purchased from outside and saved within the factory.

Process of preparation

The leather manufacturing process is composed of three basic processes:

1. Preparatory stages
2. Tanning
3. Crusting

The preparatory stages

It is when the hide is ready for tanning. Preparatory stages consist of: soaking, hair removal, liming, deliming, bating, bleaching, and pickling.

Tanning

This helps to stabilize proteins, of raw hide to expand the thermal, chemical and microbiological stability of the hides and skins, making it suitable for a good sort of end applications. Typical process sees tanners load the hides into a drum and dip them during a tank that contains the tanning “liquor”. The hides soak whereas the drum move around and so the tanning liquor slowly penetrates through the complete thickness of the hide. When the entire process is complete and achieves penetration, they pH of liquor is raised above by the workers during a process called basification.

Crusting

It is a process that thins and lubricates leather. It often includes a coloring operation. Chemicals added during crusting must be fixed in situ. It culminates with a drying and softening operation, and should include splitting, shaving, dyeing, whitening or other ways.

For most of leathers, tanners apply a coating on surface, known as “finishing”. Finishing method includes:

• Oiling
• Brushing
• Coating
• Polishing

Leathers are oiled to enhance its water resistance. This currying process after tanning, adds the natural oils remaining within the leather itself, which may be washed out through repeated exposure to water.

Frequent oiling of leather, with mink oil, neat foot oil, or an identical material keeps it supple and improves its lifespan dramatically.

The Manufacturing Process

The development of high-speed sewing machinery changed the face of traditional sewing factories where one person may have worked on one garment from start to end. Because leather garments are considered luxury items, hand-construction by highly skilled artisans remains sought by many people. However, the subsequent steps are those utilized in factory production.

1. Jacket design

Garment manufacturers typically employ designers to make patterns from which the clothing is formed. Computerized machines grade the designs consistent with government anthropometric tables which assign sizes supported body height and weight. The pc then produces patterns during a range of sizes from the first design.

2. Cutting

The tanned leather is then put on moving tables, known as spreaders. Although modern technology allows several layers of cloth to be cut simultaneously, leather is typically cut one layer at a time. The pattern is then placed on top of the leather. This is often accomplished in one among two ways; tissue-paper patterns could also be pinned onto the leather, or the pattern could also be marked with chalk. The spreading table works on the conveyer system, moving the material to the cutting machine, which is fitted with either rotary blades or band-knives. The table is either guided by a person’s operator or run automatically.

3. Jacket assembly

The jacket is assembled in roughly this order: the edges are stitched to the rear portion, sleeve under seams are stitched together, and therefore the sleeves are attached to the armholes. The attachment of finishing pieces like collars, cuffs, buttonholes, buttons, zippers, and pockets varies consistent with the planning of the jacket. Patch pockets are sewn onto the side pieces before they’re stitched to the rear portion, and side pockets are sewn in at an equivalent time that the edges are attached to the rear. Generally, lining material is attached to every piece before it’s sewn onto the jacket. During a sequential system, one home appliance stitches a specific section of the jacket then moves the garment to a different home appliance which performs subsequent step. Each step, from setting thread and needle positions to aligning the material to extracting the sewed materials, is pre-programmed. Each home appliance is provided with under-bed trimming devices that automatically knot and cut threads after each seam are sewn.

4. Molding and pressing

Different pressing processes incorporating heat application, steaming, and blocking is used to complete the transformation of the animal skins into a jacket. Buck presses equipped with controls and gauges to manage the quantity of steam and pressure are wont to give the jacket its distinctive shape, whether a bomber- or blazer-styled jacket. Curved blocks are placed round the collars and cuffs then heat is applied.

5. Final inspection

After that, every jacket is inspected by hand before leaving the floor of the factory. The jackets are then sheathed in plastic packets, packed into cartons, and shipped to the retailer.

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